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Ok guys I started to purchase the intake manifold and heads and notice that the throttle body that comes with the intake setup has and electronic throttle and not a cable in 2002 honda accord. So can I substitute another TB with a one with a cable pulley that will give good performance for me adding on my J30A1 block with J35A4 head and intake setup?
 

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Ok thanks... ah wheelman... I constantly read your J30/J35 upgrade and some of the part that you have listed am trying to break down what the abbreviations mean... P2R and P&P... can you be more specific on the components that you bought... yes am building amd exact replica to yours but am going to use force Induction from my ebay turbo kit... I can build engines but being here in the bahamas I don't have a vast selections of stores over here where we can find preformance parts... I would appreciate the help on looking for parts directly. So in some ways we can have twin motors with exception of a turbo... question are you still using stock rods and piston on your swap while staying N/A or did you strengthen them with your upgrade... thanks again...
 

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J35 _ 5-Speed A/T
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Ok thanks... ah wheelman... I constantly read your J30/J35 upgrade and some of the part that you have listed am trying to break down what the abbreviations mean... P2R and P&P... can you be more specific on the components that you bought... yes am building amd exact replica to yours but am going to use force Induction from my ebay turbo kit... I can build engines but being here in the bahamas I don't have a vast selections of stores over here where we can find preformance parts... I would appreciate the help on looking for parts directly. So in some ways we can have twin motors with exception of a turbo... question are you still using stock rods and piston on your swap while staying N/A or did you strengthen them with your upgrade... thanks again...

P2R - Power Rev Racing
P&P - Port and Polish


There is no need to upgrade the low end when you only swap the top end.
 

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Ok guys I have got alot of scatterd information from reading these post and came up with a new and final game plan... here goes... I have been informed by wheelman that I can still use my stock ecu and harness when I do a J35A4 head and intake manifold setup like he did. But I was wonder If I also swaped out the crank and rods and installed the J35A4 crank and rods in my J30A1 block and re-use or get new J30A1 piston which I assume has a low compression ratio....(I assume, I could be wrong since am told my engine will be a 3.3L now) is it safe to still use a turbo system on it because am hoping the I can still boost to 8psi. Or is it that with me now using the Odyssey crank and rods with the J30A1 piston, the compression ratio will be to high? And it will be best for me to remain all motor without force induction?
 

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Maverick_Supersonic
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i have a 07 accord with a j32a3 and stock v6 tranny. my tranny died a few weeks ago and a buddy of mine has 07/08 auto type-s that he's parting out. my question is can i put the type-s motor/tranny along with ecu from that car into my accord? i know some pins will have swapped around on the ecu but can it work?
 

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No because the 07-08 TL tranney have 5 sensors and the accord only has 4. Unless you are willing to swap over the complete harness it is not going to be easy. Might be better to look for a oddyessy transmission that would fit since they are beefed than the accord and has oil squirters
 

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New At This

Yo, i have a 2000 accord with the f23 engine and the 5speed tranny and im trying to figure out which is the best swap to do to it. If you guys could help me out or redirect me to where i can get helped or another thread ill appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I'm another noob with a different application. I am transplanting a 2003 J32A2 out of a TL into a 1962 Mini Cooper. Since the Mini is pre-1976 I don't have to worry about smog (Norcal). I have swapped out the flywheel to a Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel and clutch and married the Honda 6-speed to the engine. I have purchased an AEM Infinity 6 ECM since the engine will be a complete standalone. As I understand it the J32A2 is good for 260hp out of the box. My target curb weight is 1800 pounds. Ideally, I would like a 20% hp/weight ratio, but that would drive me to 360 hp and a turbo/supercharger. I'm not averse to that, but I want to see what the driveability is at a lower power output before I start getting serious power developed. Keep in mind, the standard 4 cylinder for this car developed a whopping 54 hp. Can any of you recommend bolt-ons to get me to at least 300? Will a good tuner be able to get the engine to 300 with no other bolt-ons?
This is my 23rd car build, but my first Japanese project so I could really use the help.
Thanks,
John
 

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J35 _ 5-Speed A/T
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I'm another noob with a different application. I am transplanting a 2003 J32A2 out of a TL into a 1962 Mini Cooper. Since the Mini is pre-1976 I don't have to worry about smog (Norcal). I have swapped out the flywheel to a Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel and clutch and married the Honda 6-speed to the engine. I have purchased an AEM Infinity 6 ECM since the engine will be a complete standalone. As I understand it the J32A2 is good for 260hp out of the box. My target curb weight is 1800 pounds. Ideally, I would like a 20% hp/weight ratio, but that would drive me to 360 hp and a turbo/supercharger. I'm not averse to that, but I want to see what the driveability is at a lower power output before I start getting serious power developed. Keep in mind, the standard 4 cylinder for this car developed a whopping 54 hp. Can any of you recommend bolt-ons to get me to at least 300? Will a good tuner be able to get the engine to 300 with no other bolt-ons?
This is my 23rd car build, but my first Japanese project so I could really use the help.
Thanks,
John

I'm not a wrench head, I am the guy that pays someone else to do it, so keep that in mind. This section is pretty much dead so I may be the only one to respond...



300 Crank HP? - yeah, will be Easy.

1. Headers. (If you buy some from Ebay, have someone reweld/go over the welds at the primaries. They always crack at the primaries.


2. Throttle Body. Either bore the throttle body or find an aftermarket that you could use. The bigger the better. However, after a certain size you should modify the intake manifold opening to match the size of the throttle body to avoid the bottleneck.

3. Camshafts

OEM CAMS
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04-06 Acura TL-s or (year??) Acura RL camshafts. RL is suppose to put out a tad bit more HP. You would need a spacer adapter with either one because those cams are a tad bit shorter than the J32A2 cams.


AFTERMARKET CAMS
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TB Motorworx makes some street/strip cams. They are expensive as $hit but they are NEW Billet cams, that are outsourced to CROWER. TB Motorworx is known for putting a lot of R and D into naturally aspirated engines/components, so those cam profiles should be optimized for all motor.

There are Regrind options too - TB Motorworx does regrinds and so does Bisimoto


4. Port and polish the entire Top End


5. Lightweight Crank Pulley
**It should be ok with your lightweight flywheel combination.





I will throw this out to you also. People have done 3.6 Stroker builds with Bisi regrinds, bolt-ons, using an AEM EMS standalone and yielded 350 Wheel HP and more. You could go 3.5 litre also.

All you would need to do is put in the rotating assembly components into that Block, they will go right in with no modifications. It's a great block to use because it has extra ribbing on the sides to handle the higher RPM's. The sleeves are steel versus FRM (Fiber Reinforced Metal).
 

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Hey guys, love all of the info. I want do the 6 speed swap to my 1999 accord over the winter- got all the parts sourced, but one ever seems to answer the question as to where a 'Richie's Swap Module',Schematic,or, some type of ECU that will allow me to have a normally functioning VTEC, speedometer,ETC- since I will be mating an originally automatic engine and ECU to a manuel transmission? How do I find it or make it? Is it needed? Please Help.
 

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J35 _ 5-Speed A/T
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Hey guys, love all of the info. I want do the 6 speed swap to my 1999 accord over the winter- got all the parts sourced, but one ever seems to answer the question as to where a 'Richie's Swap Module',Schematic,or, some type of ECU that will allow me to have a normally functioning VTEC, speedometer,ETC- since I will be mating an originally automatic engine and ECU to a manuel transmission? How do I find it or make it? Is it needed? Please Help.



You will need Richie's Module. He doesn't make those anymore, not for a long time. No schematics available. Rarely come up for sale.

You will need to do a complete drivetrain swap at this point. Swap in a J32A2 with the ECU from a 2003 Acura CL-s (hard to find used ones though), and yes, that is the only ECU you can use with the J32A2. ECU is still available from on-line dealers, but $$$$$!!!

..... or a J35A3, J35A4 but you would need to go full Standalone with either of those 2 engines since they are Automatics.

Those 3 engines will bolt right up to the 6 speed tranny.


I drive automatics since I am a paraplegic, so any info on the 6 speed swap is out of my knowledge base.
 

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probably be better off doing a full stand alone like AEM series 2 for v6. Its still pretty complex though.
 

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J35 _ 5-Speed A/T
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probably be better off doing a full stand alone like AEM series 2 for v6. Its still pretty complex though.
Not necessarily on the J32A2 set up. You can use the J32A2 2003 Acura CL-s 6-speed ECU and it will run the engine 100%, no limp mode. You may have 2 or 3 things that may need to be repined/wired up like the Speedo, Temp gauge, since the Acura CL-s might have a different pin in the ECU for those items. Possibly something else, because I don't do any of that work myself. I pay someone else to do that stuff.



Yes on the J35A3/A4 set up. Since there is no OEM HONDA manual tranny ECU for those engines, and you could not use the ACURA CL-s 6 speed ECU with those automatic engines due to the internal sensors, etc, a Full Stand Alone would be required.
 

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Before I start laying out the options, an aftermarket transmission is essential when you choose to stay NA (naturally aspirated) or going FI (force induction) route.
The current aftermarket transmissions available:
1. Dr. EVil with LSD ($4000)
2. Less expensive unit (different company) is currently being produced/tested

Custom J30A1 (Accord V6) - turbo application:

Option 1: stock J30A1 block/heads/IM/TB
Option 2: stock J30A1 block/J32A2 heads/J32A2 upper/lower manifold/J32A2 TB.

If I start all over again building the custom block with forged JE (9.0:1) pistons and Crower rods along with custom iron sleeves and new crankshaft I would definitely choose turbo path.

For starters, the low compression and stronger than stock listed internals can withstand up to 20psi or so. The current Comptech supercharger with supplied blower (Eaton/Magnuson model MP62) pretty much maxing out at 10-10.5psi, so it's limited in generating more boost if desired. In order to utilize extra boost, the next upgrade can be MP90 model which CT doesn't sell and can be purchased directly from Eaton/Magnuson distributors. However to fit the unit is the big issue since it's wider than MP62 and it also required to modify inlet/outlet to function properly. With that however in mind, if properly done that unit can spin enough to generate up to 15-16psi. Thus, in my opinion MP90 is out of the question and money required to make it happened (~$2500) can be rather invested in custom turbo application to utilize extra boost.

BTW, choosing the stock AV6 block is less expensive option since all you have to do is to keep your block and order just custom sleeves/pistons/rods and new strong stock crankshaft. I've heard from my installer as well as others Acura/Honda mechanics that Honda produce amazing crankshaft so that's a keeper.

Now back to turbo. Single ball-bearing turbo by Garrett is the way to go with the GT35 model. It produces full boost starting from 2600rpm all the way to redline. All other options are up to the owner and/or the shop who will be doing it.

Now, the famous cylinder heads and manifold questions:

Again the less expensive way is to keep the stock heads, stock manifold (upper/lower) and bore the stock 60mm TB (throttle body) up to 4mm when adding turbo. The J32A2 cam swap going to help some but I wouldn't change VTEC x point just leaving as it is.

The other option which is great is to get J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) heads, lower (injector base) /upper manifold (intake manifold) and J32A2 TB. The gains here are great in mid-range and top-end. Even if you do a J32A2 cam swap into J30A1 heads the gains will still be less since J32A2 have larger intake valves along with larger round shape intake runners/ports, thus the air flow going to be significantly more generating extra power. In addition, stock J32A2 66mm TB can be ported up to 70-71mm getting even more gains.

This option is also perfect for choosing either J32A2 (3.2L) or J35A* (3.5L) blocks

Porting in polishing

IMO, the J30A1 heads/ manifold is not worth it since with the money spent the gains will be minimal. That is also applies to J32A2 heads/manifold since I've seen on cl board people gain very little with money spent.

Gaskets

If using stock heads/manifold just get stock gasket kits. Both FRONT cyl. head gasket kit ($171.48) and REAR cyl. head gasket kit (includes IM too - $83.96) can be purchased at hondaautomotiveparts.com (these prices are based on 2002 AV6). Also, both of those kits include 2 head gaskets that you place on the block and bolt it up both cyl.heads. In addition, I recommend getting new head studs (16) since they tend to stretch with added heat especially when you plan on adding supercharger or turbo (item called BOLT-WASHER (12X163) and priced at $5.38 at the same web site). APR makes great head studs, however not yet available for our cars.

When using J32A2 (CL-S/TL-S) heads/manifold you obviosly need those.
Both FRONT J32A2 cyl. head gasket kit ($136.66) and REAR J32A2 cyl. head kit (included IM too - $119.77) can be purchased at acuraautomotiveparts.org (these prices are based on 2003 CL-S auto). Again, both kits include important head gaskets and just in case you need them as a separate item it's priced at $27.30 each (need 2). Also, keep in mind to get new head studs as explained in the above paragraph. The head studs needed are 16 (8 for each head) they called "BOLT-WASHER (12X163)" and the price is $5.91 each on the above mentioned acuraautomotiveparts.org site. Also you would need to purchase 6 new CL-S fuel injectors rated at 270cc vs 250cc on AV6 and CL-S/TL-S TB (throttle body).

Keep in mind your stock ECU controls everything.
Finally the torque from the line would be nothing spectular untill your turbo kicks in ;).

Advantage:
Custom internals provide best boost potential for turbo (assuming safe Air/Fuel ratio).

Disadvantage:
a. J30A1 pistons have to be modified (valve pockets metal removal) to have clearance for large J32A2 intake valves. This have to be done only if planning to add J32A2 cylinder heads, etc.

Updated valve specs:
J30A1 '98-02 AV6: 34mm/29mm (intake/exhaust)
J32A2 '01-03 TL-S/CL-S: 36mm/30mm

b. Torque is a little less than J32 but not significant as J35.

Summary: If plan to add turbo on stock J30A1 block - custom low CR pistons/rods are a must. If sleeves are in bad condition they have to be replaced.
The rest is simply bolt on. Higly recommend new engine/transmission mounts, gasket kits, new Denso Iridium IK22 plugs, belts.

If planning to swap stock cyl. heads with J32A2, J30A1 pistons have to be modified as mentioned above. You would also need the following J32A2 parts: injector base (lower manifold) including fuel rails, fuel injectors, upper manifold and throttle body, and new head studs.

Final word,

IMO, either keep stock cyl. heads/manifold/tb or get J32A2 short block along with J32A2 upper/lower manifold and throttle body. This would be a better choice since no J30A1 pistons or any modifications needed, therefore it will be a simple swap. However, keep in mind this option is better for supercharger since as mentioned Comptech blower is maxing out the efficiency and would be limited to run at 8.5-9psi with this option and 10-11psi with stock heads. These maximum values of boost are used assuming custom intercooler added with fuel management unit like E-Manage.

Also coming soon :

J32A2/J32A2 swap details (auto) - for detailed 6MT list look somewhere else
J35A4/J32A2 swap concrete details (auto)
I k how this was written, more than 15 years ago.... great thread. I am currently researching for this build. I want to keep my j30 block, j32 heads and cam. I'm gonna go with a holley intake. My question is, should I just put j32 pistons in? Instead of modifying the j30 pistons?
 
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